In the entertainment industry, you will most likely be employed by a theater, opera, or dance company as its resident designer. Some costume artists are also freelancers, who work on special commissions. Besides knowing how to sketch designs, along with how to select fabrics, cut patterns, and stitch, you will need to know how a director thinks and the mood he or she is trying to convey in a performance. Historical knowledge of costumes is crucial, as well as understanding how costumes interact with stage sets, and making the garments easy to get in and out of during quick changes.
Other specialty designers, who work either independently or for larger manufacturing firms, require the same amount of knowledge and experience as general clothing designers. There is also an important customized aspect to the work, which sets specialty designers apart. They typically must be familiar with the nature of their specialization and particular body types.
Hours vary depending on the demands of your clients. A lot of fashion designers would agree that they spend 24 hours a day thinking of new ideas for their creations. The same applies to costume and specialty apparel designers.
Most professional dressers are seamstresses with a keen knowledge of the theatrical profession, including timing, scene breaks, and the mood swings of temperamental stars whom they help get quickly in and out of costumes.
Costume Designers
As a costume designer, you must keep in mind that you will be working with unusual fabrics and styles-many that mirror the period of the production at hand. Therefore, in-depth research into the cuts, patterns, and materials used throughout history is mandatory. Also remember that you are designing clothes that must be seen from a great distance by an audience. Construct your garments on a large scale, and learn how to work with durable thread that will lessen the wear-and-tear of these costumes.
If you are attracted to dramatic theater, opera, music, or dance from a behind-the-scenes perspective, and you are a talented artist, then a career in costume design could be very rewarding. You will most likely work in a spacious studio, where you sketch ideas before cutting out a pattern. You will then spend time searching for rare combinations of fabrics at garage sales, flea markets, or thrift shops.
The rest of your time will include costume fittings with performers, sewing and alterations, and long hours in rehearsal to get a clear idea of the show's mood and how the actors and director are interpreting it.
Dancewear and Work-out-Wear Designers
The worlds of dance and exercise go hand-in-hand. There is a great deal of crossover, with designers involved in specialized garments that are comfortable and allow their wearers sufficient muscle warmth and sweat absorption. When it comes to shoes, intense knowledge of the feet, types of dance exercises, and proper bone and tendon placement is necessary. Some craftspeople only make ballet slippers (an especially complex art form passed on from generation to generation), jazz boots, tap and character shoes, and running shoes.
Some of the largest dance and exercise wear outlets are Capezio, Leo's, Freed's of London, and Kling's Motion Unlimited. You may work as a designer for these firms, for smaller specialty stores, or for your own business.
For exercise enthusiasts, cotton and Lycra blends in shorts and halter tops are often best-sellers, mainly because the cotton allows the skin to breathe and better absorbs perspiration than does 100 percent Lycra. With more women entering marathons, jogger-style bras that provide extra support are frequently requested items. Most exercise fashions are sleeveless to allow for greater freedom of movement. Lycra or Spandex is an important material for supporting the veins in the legs.
Shoes, which serve to support the foot, are critical to a proper fitness regimen. Experts say that some of the best footwear features include a narrowing at the back of the heel inside the shoe that hugs the ankle and prevents the foot from twisting; a built-in high arch; a lot of air holes; cushioned soles; absorbency; and all-leather construction for added comfort.
These are just some of the points to keep in mind when pursuing a design career in dance and workout-wear.
Designing for the Professional Athlete
If you are in the business of designing clothes for sports professionals and enthusiasts, you need to know a lot about the sport at hand, whether it is baseball, football, tennis, mountain climbing, or figure skating. Beyond team uniforms, you will be creating a variety of warm-up and practice gear that is comfortable and healthy for an athlete's body.
Because large outlet stores and manufacturers have cornered this market, you would most likely be employed in this type of environment, as opposed to being self-employed. If you have a sports and fashion background, your knowledge and expertise will be invaluable. Because you will be meeting with coaches and players, you will have to speak their language and understand what kinds of products are durable and muscle-friendly.
A whole special segment exists for the outdoor sportsperson (skiing, hiking, mountain climbing, hunting, and kayaking, for example), with new developments constantly in the works. The bulk of outdoor merchandise consists of jackets with "breathable," water-repellant fabric on the outside and down or high-performance synthetic fillers (such as Thinsulate) on the inside for warmth. For example, a company called The North Face has developed durable clothing known as Tekware. Made from a new generation of synthetic and synthetic/ cotton blend fabrics, it is reported to be comfortable to wear, rugged, abrasion-resistant, and designed to wick away sweat and dry quickly.
No matter which sporting activity, or activities, you choose, remember that these are products that not only make athletes look good, but also protect them from the perils of their occupations.
Creating Special-Occasion Apparel
Bridal wear is probably the first type of special-occasion garment that comes to mind; rightfully, because the wedding industry is one of the largest and most popular in the fashion world. Other areas include attire for religious events and personnel, along with graduation gowns. The latter two fields are similar to sportswears, where a big outlet or manufacturing firm handles these bulk orders, and works with staff designers who turn their ideas over to the sewing department.
Bridal gown designers, on the other hand-who may also create veils and other accessories-have a number of career options. They can design their own custom line seasonally, work at a specialty bridal boutique, or work in the bridal department of a large clothing store. Just as styles change for women's wear, they also go through different phases in the bridal arena. Keep in touch with these trends, while putting your own personal stamp on your work. After all, a lot of brides want something that represents their unique personalities.
A whole new language exists for this fashion segment, and designers must be attuned to it. For example, being able to distinguish between a portrait collar and an illusion front-or a Queen Anne neckline and leg-of-mutton sleeve-is par for the course. Satin, silk, and hand-beaded laces are among the delicate fabrics that are transformed into what you hope will be a sensational, eye-catching wedding ensemble.
Based on today's styles in numerous bridal magazines, classic, understated looks mark the current wedding gown trend. Lace and pearls never seem to go out of style. Even shorter, more fitted looks are becoming main-stream.
Uniform Designers
Several occupations still require clearly recognizable uniforms. A few examples are medical personnel, law enforcement employees, military professionals, mail carriers, and students at private schools. As a uniform designer, your work may get somewhat monotonous because there is not a lot of room for creativity. Yet you will have plenty of work, involving alterations to traditional designs and meticulous detailing work.
Once again, you will be employed at a large manufacturing firm that turns these products out in massive quantities. If you choose to specialize in uniforms, you will work in an atmosphere more akin to an apparel plant as opposed to a chic studio, where you create smashing designs that are displayed in blockbuster fashion shows.
The work, however, is steady. There remains a need for uniform designers as long as a great number of very high-profile professions require them.
Professional Theatrical Dressers
For an in-depth look at the often unknown profession of theatrical dressers, rent the 1983 film The Dresser, starring Albert Finney and Tom Courtenay. It details the backstage work of these unsung heroes who not only help performers get in and out of their costumes at rapid-fire speed, but also wash and repair these costumes and have mastered the intricate mechanics of working with archaic clothing, including tightly laced corsets, spats, and enormous hoop skirts.
There is more than meets the eye in this unpredictable profession than simply helping actors with costume changes and alterations. You must never succumb to panic and always be resourceful. After all, on average, a quick change can last anywhere from 20 seconds to two minutes-and timing is everything. You also have to deal with long, erratic show-business schedules.
Although theatrical dressers in this country date back to vaudeville, they became firmly established as a profession in the 1940s. In Chicago, for example, the first Theatrical Wardrobe Union was founded in 1943, and consisted mainly of stagehands' wives and cleaning personnel. Today, this union has grown to more than 60 members, who are assigned to work on shows by a business agent.
Because you will be dressing both unknown supporting actors and famous celebrities, be prepared to deal with any personality type. At times, you may even be sought out for advice, or act as a surrogate parent to the complex artists who make up the eclectic theatrical profession.
Off to a Good Start in Costume Design
One of the best places to test your costume design talents is in high school or with your local community theater group. Both will give you the opportunity to create the look of small-scale shows, and will familiarize you with the general workings of the theatrical world.
Take basic sewing and design courses to sharpen your hand-stitching and pattern-cutting skills. Practice sketching, which is another vital aspect of this profession.
Then spend time in the library researching period costume fabrics, design, and construction. It also wouldn't hurt to take an acting and/or scenic design course to learn how to work within other disciplines of the theater.
In addition, you can prepare by going to a lot of live shows and films for a basic understanding of trends, techniques, and types of costumes needed. In your spare time, visit costume shops and clothing boutiques to see how these specialized items are constructed.
Off to a Good Start in Specialty Apparel Design
Whether you decide to design bridal gowns, uniforms, or sports clothes, you will need the basic skills of a fashion designer. Sketching, cutting out patterns, selecting fabrics, and sewing are all part of the process. The only difference is that you are in a very specific niche market that has its own rules, guidelines, and procedures. And for any specialization, you must know your product inside and out.
If you enjoy skiing, for example, and are pursuing a fashion design career, pay attention to the heavy gear you wear. Better yet, think of even more comfortable or lightweight ways of making this particular product more appealing and practical. The same applies to other niches, such as dance or workout attire.
The bridal sector is very close to what high-fashion designers do. One major difference is that you are designing a very special garment that carries a lot of symbolism and sentiment with it. Your fabrics are exceptional and expensive, and intricate beading techniques are a major requirement for this field.
In other areas, such as uniforms and graduation gowns, you will be part of the mass-produced garment industry, joining forces with seamstresses and tailors to do standard, but high-quality, work. Textile and art-related courses are a must. Experience working in garment stores or limited merchandise boutiques will also prepare you for your future.
Off to a Good Start in Theatrical Dressing
First and foremost, to prepare for a career in theatrical dressing learns to become a top-notch seamstress or tailor. That's the basis of your job. Enhance that by being able to do on-the-spot alterations or restyling. Like a typing student, time yourself to see how quickly you can repair, button, and lace hard-to-handle fabrics such as velvet and burlap. Then get out to the theater and watch as many shows as you can afford. One way to see a lot of shows free is by volunteering as an usher. Talk with backstage dressers-even ask to work as an apprentice.
As in costume design, get started by dressing performers in your school or community theater productions, where mistakes are just part of the learning process. That way, by the time you get to larger theaters, you will have mastered the split-second timing needed to move the show along flawlessly.
Because choreography is crucial to the smooth running of any production, learn how to pace yourself and arrange your costumes in synch with the performance as a whole.
Educational and Apprenticeship Requirements for Costume and Specialty Apparel Designers
Educational options in costume design are many and varied. Most designers opt to work on the theater faculty of major universities, where they create costumes for local productions. Apprenticeships with area performing troupes are also quite popular. Apart from taking classes in acting, stagecraft, lighting, and scene and prop construction, your education would be very similar to that of general fashion designers.
The same holds true for specialty apparel designers, who work in the clothing industry but attain more specialized knowledge through practical experience and understanding of a particular area.
In 1993, the National Association of Schools of Art and Design accredited 179 post-secondary institutions with programs in art and design. Most of these schools award a degree in art. Many schools do not allow formal entry into a bachelor's degree program until a student has successfully finished a year of basic art and design courses. Applicants may be required to submit sketches and other examples of their artistic ability.
Two- and four-year degree programs in fine arts exist throughout the United States, as well as two- and three-year professional schools that award certificates or associate degrees in design. Graduates of two-year programs generally qualify as assistants to designers. An ideal liberal arts curriculum would include courses in art history, sketching, life (anatomical) drawing, garment construction, draping, pattern-making, textiles, and merchandising. A few schools offer one-year programs in practical design. Studies stress applied skills rather than liberal arts courses.
Educational and Apprenticeship Requirements for Theatrical Dressers
No degrees are required to be a successful theatrical dresser. More important are the quick sewing skills that can be acquired through an apprenticeship with an established dresser, practice, and textile courses or workshops.
If you can't break into a theater immediately, apply for a job at a garment manufacturing firm, where you can hone the tools of your trade. Even work at dry cleaners can provide you with the experience needed to do all kinds of repairs and alterations. It will also familiarize you with the endless varieties of fabrics.
Finally, rely on your own confidence and talent to get to know actors, directors, and other theatrical dressers. Frequent restaurants or neighborhoods where the artistic community hangs out, and keep up with the top theater companies in your area as well as blockbuster touring shows.
Where the Jobs Are in Costume and Specialty Apparel Design
Obviously, jobs for costume designers are in theater, dance, opera, and film. But there is also a small niche market of unusual costume shops and larger, more mainstream holiday-themed stores. You might want to explore the latter options before moving into stage work. Get your foot in the door early if you aim to become the next Edith Head, the world-renowned costume designer who has won a slough of Oscars for her sensational work in Hollywood over the decades.
One clever way is by auditioning as an extra, or supernumerary, in local theatrical or opera productions. This simply means standing in the background as a "living prop." This way, you will have firsthand experience wearing a costume that someday you might want to design. You will also be able to see how the designs fit within the context of the production in progress, and get a clear idea of some of the fabrics and detailing needed.
If you wish to pursue specialty apparel, attend industry trade shows, such as bridal expos and uniform conventions. Look for a position as a seamstress or designer assistant in these firms or at a bridal store; then work your way up to a designer position.
Where the Jobs Are for Theatrical Dressers
Of course, the only option for theatrical dressers is to work backstage or on a movie set. Variations on the theme include special promotions outside theaters that require costume changes, or fundraisers at hotels, for example, that include live entertainment. Fashion shows, too, require dressers.
Because theatrical dressers work in such a small, tight-knit profession, their craft is often passed on from generation to generation in families; or mentor to student, and so on. This is one way of ensuring an ongoing, quality line of succession. But if you have the skills, and suddenly decide to pursue this field, humble yourself-even volunteer-for backstage work until you get your big break. Think of yourself as taking a career route not much different from aspiring stars.
Salary and Success Outlook for Costume and Specialty Apparel Designers
Because costume designers are more specialized than fashion designers, they don't have as many career opportunities open to them. If they are employed by a ballet, opera, or theatrical company, they would start at an annual salary in the mid to high teens, with the possibility of advancing to the high thirties or forties. It is difficult to give a general pay scale because costume design work is often sporadic and seasonal. Some of the best rewards are intangible, focusing more on artistic achievement and recognition than on high pay and bonuses.
There are also the few legendary exceptions to the rule-big-time costume designers whose work is so exceptional; they earn profits in the millions. However, most costume designers will tell you that their incomes are modest, but their jobs are fun and fulfilling.
As in general clothing design, average weekly earnings for experienced full-time specialty apparel designers are $585-some slightly less for entry-level apparel firms. Design assistant positions pay about $300 to $325 a week. Designers at top companies can earn from $50,000 to $100,000 a year. They may become partners in the firm for which they design garments, or start their own specialty company. Both arenas are competitive, and the supply typically outweighs the demand. Nevertheless, opportunities are available for the most talented and determined designers. It's up to you to find them. Employment in fashion design across the board is expected to grow through the year 2005.
Salary and Success Outlook for Theatrical Dressers
The job outlook for this close-knit profession is not particularly bright. Multitudes of theatrical dressers are not in great, constant demand. And the pay is often minimum wage or slightly higher. Yet it is an exciting profession, with opportunities for growth and satisfaction. If you enjoy the nomadic life, you might want to aim for a job as a full-time dresser for a touring troupe or act.
Your earnings are close to those of seamstresses and tailors-around $15,000 to $20,000 annually. You can also supplement your income by doing alterations at a dry cleaners or clothing store.
Some unions within the theatrical world provide health and insurance benefits to their members.
